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What I saw in London”, by David W. Bartlett. Victoria Park Published 1852 in Auburn, New York. The book describes the American author’s experiences in London during two twelve month visits to London in 1847/8 (then aged only19) and 1850/1. |
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But
from looking at the Park of fashion let us turn to the Victoria Park. We
visited it one Sunday afternoon, because nothing is to be seen in it save on
Sundays, when the laboring population is not at work. This park is
emphatically the park of the poor. No fashion enters it; wealth and so-styled
respectability shun it. It is situated north-east of London, and immediately
adjoins Bethnal Green and Spitalfields, those great rendezvous for the
wretched, vile, and suffering. It is miles east of that great airing-place
of the aristocracy, Hyde Park, and has no fellowship with any of the other
parks. It is kicked out of their society for its want of name, ancient
associations, and its poverty. Yet,
though the grounds are new and not all laid out, it is a beautiful park. Its
entrance-gate is, though not costly, in good taste, and the first department
is laid out very gracefully. There are miniature lakes in it, full of swans
and other aquatic birds. A beautiful island is formed by one of’ them, and
upon it there is an elegant and fairy-like structure in the Chinese style of
architecture, which is, in the proper season, almost buried among a profusion
of flowers and shrubs and plants. The open fields are kept beautifully green,
the walks are well graveled, and it is one of the healthiest spots within ten
or fifteen miles of London, in any direction. The
proximity of Bethnal Green is apt to subtract from the pleasure of visiting
it, but in a few minutes’ walk, if you choose, you can leave all London out
of sight. It
was one Sunday afternoon when we started out to see Victoria Park in all its
glory -with the people it was intended for, in it. Our walk lay through a
portion of Spitalfields and Bethnal Green, and was not pleasant. The streets
were crowded with a filthy set of vagabonds - very likely so because they were
unable to obtain work - and the shops were at least half of them open; the
gin-shops especially appearing to be driving a heavy business. Some of the
streets through which we walked were very low and dirty, and sometimes it was
with difficulty that we faced our way through them, the odors that greeted us
at every step were so nauseating. After
a long walk we came to Bethnal Green, where there is a good-looking church and
a pleasant green, though the houses and streets in the vicinity are all of the
poorest kind, or pretty much so. In
a few minutes the Park was in sight. Immediately in front of the Park-gate
there are two or three acres of open land, unenclosed, upon which the people
gather for any kind of meetings, and we could already see several different
crowds or assemblages. The people were the workmen of London, that we could
see plainly enough by their brawny arms, work-worn hands, and care-worn faces.
The mechanics of London, to our eye, are a sad-looking set of men. They are
not like the English farmers with their red cheeks and lusty voices; not like
the race of English squires fatted upon roast-beef and plum-pudding, but are
either beer-bloated and sodden-eyed, or pale and care-worn. We
stopped before one of the crowds of people to see what was the subject of
excitement. There were two or three hundred men gathered around a little
hillock, upon which a pale young man stood delivering a sort of political
speech. Said he, in earnest tones, as we approached. “Yes!
hypocrite Lord Ashley has established a reading-room for working-men! A
reading-room for the working-men of London! And what do you suppose this
philanthropic nobleman gives us to read? Why! the only paper which ‘we can
find there is the bloody Times! That paper which calls the noble Mazzini a
scoundrel, which eulogizes butcher Haynau, which is paid for its advocacy of
despotism by Austria—that is the paper which my Lord Ashley dares to offer
us to read! He and the proprietors of that paper pretend to love us, and yet
refuse to give us our God given rights! Call themselves our friends, and still
tax us till we bleed at every pore, and refuse to let us vote.” There
was a rough eloquence in the words of the speaker, and the crowd that gathered
about him seemed to feel all that the rude orator felt, and to despise the
Times and the aristocracy. We watched their faces carefully to get some
indications of the spirit within, and saw clearly by the compressed lips and
clenched fists that they felt keenly the despotic conduct of the English
nobles. We
passed on to another collection of people, and there ‘Universal Suffrage”
was the theme of the speaker. He told his hearers how that in England only one
in every six of male adults can vote, while all are taxed alike, and detailed
some of the abominations which are practiced under the “glorious
constitution of old England.” Going
on a little further, we found a smaller group gathered about an honest
Scotchman, who with an open Bible in his hand, was warning his hearers to
“flee from the wrath to come.” His voice was raised to its highest pitch,
and his body kept swaying to and fro in a most ludicrous manner, and we found
it impossible to resist a quiet smile. Yet we honored the pious old man for
coming to such a place and sowing the good seed, though upon such a barren
soil. Every moment his audience grew smaller, until at last only two or three
were left, and the preacher closed up his Bible as if in despair. It
is a sad thing, but there are frightful masses of people in London, who know
little and care less for the Bible or religion, and what is sadder still, we
fear the English churches are in a manner to blame for it. These hard-working
men have got to think that a religious man is an aristocrat, that a churchman
is one who debars them from their political rights. The State-church they
think lives upon what is not its own; its bishops upon immense salaries wrung
from the people while they are starving. They see the well-dressed religionists
in their coaches before the churches, and imagine that the Bible upholds
oppression and fraud, and in their anger they cast it beneath their feet.
Mistaken men! - and yet as such to be pitied as condemned. It is a startling
fact, and one which no proper judge can deny, that infidelity is in. creasing
in London among the working classes, and it is our belief that for this
infidelity those persons who are practical infidels, though professional
Christians, must to a great degree be held responsible. These poor men feel
that their rights are defrauded from them, and no amount of argument will
convince them that their defrauders are good men. It is too much to expect
that the oppressed will judge their oppressors with liberality. Victoria
Park is every pleasant Sunday the scene of gatherings for almost blasphemous
purposes. The language of some of the speakers is many times fearfully wicked,
but it indicates to the careful observer the religious condition of the
poorest classes of the metropolis. Upon the very spot where we lingered to
listen to the pious Scotchman, Bishop Bonner once lived, and some of the trees
are now standing which used to flourish in his garden. Turning
in at the Entrance-gate, we were among a better class than those who
congregated on the open common outside of it. There were many men, women,
and children wandering over the grounds, but almost all, if not quite, were of
the humblest classes. There was but a sprinkling of women, as the women of the
wretched classes are, if anything, worse in their tastes than the men. Drunken
women are as common, or nearly so, in London, as drunken men. At
the entrance of the eastern park - for a highway divides the park in two -
there is a pretty porter’s cottage, or lodge, where we saw all manner of
intoxicating liquors, and also edibles. The eastern park is much larger than the western, but not so well cultivated, or so tastefully laid out and decorated. It is much like any public common, and yet we liked rambling over it better than over its more civilized neighbor, for its wildness savored more of the country, and the breezes seemed freer as they swept over it. |